Path: ...!eternal-september.org!feeder3.eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Leon Fisk Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Arduino + MCP9600 + thermocouple help needed Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2024 14:21:17 -0400 Organization: A noiseless patient Spider Lines: 31 Message-ID: References: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Injection-Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2024 18:21:17 -0000 (UTC) Injection-Info: dont-email.me; posting-host="6b9b4bf6c4ddfdd15846ac1e7a97297c"; logging-data="936704"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX18lHdfDbr5YK6bFbYjLi6H/" Cancel-Lock: sha1:MM9wt16rtqpuULX+tE/FL1ZnUlc= X-Newsreader: Claws Mail 4.2.0 (GTK 3.24.38; x86_64-pc-linux-gnu) Bytes: 2371 On Tue, 19 Mar 2024 12:37:42 -0400 "Jim Wilkins" wrote: >I have a Fluke 8060A DMM whose self-test (REL while power-on) reports bad= =20 >switches, though sometimes it works after spray cleaning. I don't dare tou= ch=20 >those switches with an iron. Never used one of those but I saw them in other techs kits now and then. Per manual here: https://assets.fluke.com/manuals/8060a_3vimeng0200.pdf Those look like the same kinda switch as what is in the 8010A. I had very little success cleaning that style with any spray in radio equipment. Best bet was replacement but they were usually ganged together as a multi-switch block. Crap load of solder joints to try and get loose all to once=F0=9F=98=AC Really tedious but you could pull the retaining clips off the inner plastic plunger and carefully pull them out along with the metal contact strips. Use an eraser on those strips and similar on the standing pins inside the shell they contacted with. Some silicone grease used sparingly on the interlock bars... --=20 Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI