Path: news.eternal-september.org!eternal-september.org!feeder3.eternal-september.org!panix!.POSTED.195.252.220.245!not-for-mail
From: Ted <theise@panix.com>
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel
Subject: Re: lug nuts
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2025 02:21:35 -0000 (UTC)
Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and UNIX, NYC
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On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
>On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
>> On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
>>    sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
>>>   On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
>>>> Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
>>>> pressure.  Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat.  I got
>>>> the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
>>>> failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
>>>> is just slightly too big.  It wobbles a bit when placed all
>>>> the way in.
>>>>
>>>> A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric?  Seems 20
>>>> mm would be the size just less than 13/16".  Does that make
>>>> any sense?
>>>
>>>   Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the proper
>>>   size of the nuts.  If still stripped see recommendations below.
>> 
>> Not sure how to do that, but I picked up a 20 mm socket today and
>> it seemed to fit the nuts reasonably well.  It wouldn't go on one
>> of them at all, probably too rounded.  I sheared off a 3/8" drive
>> extension (socket is 3/8") trying to loosen a different nut, then
>> switched to a 1/2" extension conected to the adaptor.  The socket
>> then slipped on any that I tried before anything came loose.
>
>When I work on my vehicles wheels, I only use 1/2" drive.  Just about 
>everything requires 150 lbs or greater torque.  That's too much for 
>3/8".  In my View, I have a dedicated 1/2" wrench, socket, extensions, 
>and a small pipe to get more leverage.
>
>Your wheels are deep and you have the trailer body to contend with.  You 
>might need a 6" or 8" extension to be able to clear that and put a pipe 
>on the end of your socket wrench.
>
>
>>>> My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts
>>>> from trying too many times to turn them with the socket I
>>>> have.  Any suggestions on how to go at this?
>>>
>>>   You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat on
>>>   with a hammer.  Problem with this is it also might get stuck
>>>   and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
>>>
>>>   You can try using a chisel to beat it off first, and I've then
>>>   moved on to chiseling down the length of the nut and splitting
>>>   it.  Obviously, this can be hard on a nice finish of the wheel
>>>   if and when you miss. You also might end up having to install a
>>>   new wheel stud if you mess up the threads.
>>>
>>>   The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket
>>>   tool.  These work really well.  Just don't jerk your socket
>>>   wrench.  It works best with slow steady pulls.  Put a pipe on
>>>   the end if you need more leverage.
>>>
>>> <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
>> 
>> Okay, is that something I'm going to be able to apply to the nuts
>> in this stupid "pretty" wheel?
>
>I would certainly think so.  They're basically a socket made of very 
>hard steel, that has a different gripping pattern.  It grips harder the 
>more pressure you put on it.
>
>Wouldn't hurt to spray some penetrating oil in there and let it sit 
>overnight if you can.
>
>> 
>> https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
>> 
>> Ugh.  What a mess.
>
>In another post you said this:
>
>> 
>> P.S.  Sounds like this would need an impact wrench applied to it, 
>> and I don't have access to anything like that--or even power where 
>> the trailer is.
>
>I NEVER EVER use impact wrenches on our wheels.  That is probably how 
>you got in this mess in the first place.  Yes, the tires probably came 
>off to do the wheel bearings.  99% of people who do the job take them 
>off.  Then they probably just hammered them with the impact when putting 
>back on.  This is possibly how they began to get rounded.  I NEVER let 
>anyone rotate tires on my vehicles because they always use impacts.  I 
>use socket and a good bar.  Tightening, I don't even use a torque 
>wrench.  I just get them as tight as I can.  If you tighten in a 
>pattern, and then use the same pattern for the final pull, you're good.
>
>You can do this!  And...you're learning another very good lesson about 
>your rig.  You need to get a handle on doing this in case it happens in 
>the middle of nowhere.

Okay, replying on my phone, sorry if this is messy.  I did put PB Blaster on
 them a few times this afternoon.  Plan now is to call Lance and get the
 correct dimension, then get the proper size bolt and nut removing socket
 tool--in 1/2" drive.  I already have a 1/2" drive breaker bar and 3"
 extension, so will also get a bit of pipe to extend the breaker bar.

Totally agree I need to get things set so I can handle flats on the road,
 just may need some help getting over the immediate hurdle in front of me.
 The tips and encouragement may get there yet, thanks!

And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i have no idea
 where the leak may be coming from. 

-- 
Ted H <theise@panix.com>