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Path: nntp.eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Outdoor Welding Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2025 13:27:03 -0700 Organization: A noiseless patient Spider Lines: 61 Message-ID: <103f1mm$283e1$1@dont-email.me> References: <102nele$14o2m$1@dont-email.me> <103cf65$1gkqk$1@dont-email.me> <103cjln$1hq48$1@dont-email.me> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Injection-Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2025 22:27:03 +0200 (CEST) Injection-Info: dont-email.me; posting-host="4304025c834c6f3cb045318ad8c0f5ff"; logging-data="2362817"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX19ae13fE2mzxSKFT1+1hi3h" User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird Cancel-Lock: sha1:nIKfg+OGpkkBOpp8sk9SAYzb0xE= In-Reply-To: <103cjln$1hq48$1@dont-email.me> X-Antivirus-Status: Clean Content-Language: en-US X-Antivirus: AVG (VPS 250624-6, 6/24/2025), Outbound message On 6/23/2025 3:14 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote: > "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:103cf65$1gkqk$1@dont-email.me... > > Interestingly, I welded on one jack one day using stacked weave tacks > and it looks like it won't fall off. Couldn't get vertical up or > vertical down to work at all. The next day I welded on the second jack > with all the exact same settings and ran two 12 inch beads vertical up > continuous. Neither looks like a pro welded it I am sure, but I don't > think either jack will fall off. It was breezy both days, so MIG would > have not worked at all. > > Maybe it was a little breezier the first day? I don't know. > Bob La Londe > > ----------------------------------- > > I like to divide weldments into manageable sections that bolt together, > and disassemble to modify, repair or replace. This saves me from > questionable out-of-position welds. The size limit for me is how large I > can accurately drill or mill after welding. > > In building custom industrial machinery there was a lot of manual > alignment and drilling/tapping of bolt holes which is easy to do > reasonably accurately with a set of transfer punches and a Portalign > drill fixture (or freehand with practice). Taper and aircraft length > drill bits in 1/8" pilot and optionally tap and shank sizes can avoid > obstacles and span beam flanges. I've never needed a magnetic base drill. > > Use bolts long enough to put the shank in the shear plane between > assemblies for full strength. I assume the bolts aren't tightened enough > to gain grip from friction between plates, and thus their shanks bear > the full load and they are reusable. > > https://www.engineeringexpress.com/wiki/steel-bolt-edge-distance- > requirements/ > > https://site.alliedbolt.com/files/ShearStrength2.pdf > > https://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html? > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/145781854112? > I'm not sure how that is relevant to welding on a complete jack assembly to a complete trailer assembly. I guess I could have welded on flanges and then bolted the flanges together, or perhaps made up an assortment of plates and u-bolts and cut some holes in the deck to run the fasteners around the frame. I'll just have to live with my welds and see if they fall off. -- Bob La Londe CNC Molds N Stuff -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com