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From: Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Outdoor Welding
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2025 14:46:38 -0700
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On 6/28/2025 2:19 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:103pkof$12a0h$1@dont-email.me...
> 
> Another trick if you are using HSS, or if you are very careful using
> *carbide is to use a precision dowel pin, gage pin, shank of an end
> mill, 123 block, gage block, etc.  Start with your cutter slightly less
> than your precision dimension fromt he stock, and slowly move it until
> your gage just slides between.  This is "maybe" more accurate than
> paper, but I treat it the same since the preload of the lead screws is
> in the opposite direction.
> 
> I prefer an edge finder, a tool height setter, and pre-measured tool
> heights, but you never know what kind of situation you may find yourself
> in.
> 
> * If using a sharp carbide cutter you have to take a lot of care to make
> sure you do not chip a cutting edge using the slip gage method.
> Bob La Londe
> -----------------------------------
> 
> Good advice.
> 
> I use the items you mentioned and drill shanks as spacers to set the 
> lathe and mill stops for depth of cut when the tool contacts the 
> original surface if caliper jaws won't fit. Like hobby machines, my 
> 1960's antiques don't have DROs.
> 


Plenty of "hobby" machines do have DROs.  Just ask anybody who is using 
a high price "pro" machine that belongs to their boss's bank.  LOL  They 
will tell you all those import machines are hobby junk.

DROs are fairly cheap, and available for almost anything these days, but 
many of the "better" prosumer/hobby importers offer preinstalled DROs as 
an option.

There are even modestly priced DROs with bluetooth interface for a 
tablet or maybe a cell phone.  I'm not sure there.  I like my DRO 
hanging off of a big heavy steel arm.


-- 
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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