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From: Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Shortening a Ford axle
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2024 23:35:28 -0400
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On Wed, 10 Apr 2024 18:16:30 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

>   I'm shortening an axle to replace a damaged one in a one-off Gold 
>Wing powered FrankenTrike . The original axle assembly came from IIRC a 
>Ford Pinto (or Maverick maybe) , modified for the trike . The owner's 
>son got a little too heavy handed on the throttle and lost control , 
>ended up in the woods and partially wrapped around a tree . Bent the 
>axle flange and cracked the weld where they cut a piece out of the axle .
>   So I've got the replacement cut down and almost ready to weld back 
>together . I was going to MIG it with ER70S6 , but I'm wondering if I 
>should TIG it with some ER309 or 308 . It's I think a carbon steel , it 
>sparks orange with short forks - and it's hard . I started out with 
>carbide cutters but it was pushing the axle out of alignment instead of 
>cutting . Since axles apparently aren't exactly straight (!!) I decided 
>to turn a couple of reference bands so I can check runout and have a 
>concentric band to mount the steady rest , ended up using my Dremel as a 
>toolpost grinder using reinforced cutoff discs . That worked out well . 
>So now I need to decide which process and filler I need to use to glue 
>this thing back into one piece .
  1039 steel of flange mount bearings, 1050 if a c clip axle.
1050 is NOT easy to weld and should be pre and post heat treated.
 1039 is a LOT easier.

My recommendation is counter bore both ends and insert a "pin" in both
ends, chamfer the outer diameters, press the axle back together then
weld together with E6013 low hydrogen rod with an arc voltage of about
30 volts -  110 amps for 5/32 rod.
 60000  is plenty strong for the "light duty" this axle will be
subjected to - particularly with the "splice" close to the middle of
the axle.
 I would do this with my DC "buzz-box"