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From: Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Re: Successful Transplant !
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2024 19:30:00 -0400
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On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 22:17:18 -0400, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:

>On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>
>>On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>> On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>>> On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>>>>     I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
>>>>>> before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
>>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
>>>>>>     I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
>>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
>>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
>>>>>> replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
>>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
>>>>>> things a bit more lively too .
>>>>>
>>>>> I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
>>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
>>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
>>>>>
>>>>> The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
>>>>> The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or
>>>>> front and rear.
>>>>>
>>>>> The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
>>>>> The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
>>>>> speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.
>>>>>
>>>>> Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
>>>>> its the real deal for street racing.
>>>>>
>>>>> FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
>>>>> around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
>>>>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
>>>>> with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only
>>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a
>>>>> backup... er tow vehicle that is.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>    I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
>>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
>>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
>>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
>>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
>>>> testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
>>>> controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
>>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
>>>> workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
>>>   Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
>>> warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
>>> input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
>>> prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
>>> Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
>>> works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
>>> with simple relay logic - the  speed control is the most complicated.
>>> An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
>>> costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
>>> wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
>>> the basic programming involved.
>>> 
>>
>>   Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it 
>>will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new 
>>when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to 
>>function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup 
>>is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by 
>>engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do 
>>know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was 
>>rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got 
>>lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the 
>>trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
> If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
>and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
>(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
>even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
>they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
>governor pressure.  The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
>VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
>well as transparent engagement and cold operation.
 Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)