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From: Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.design
Subject: Re: Miraculous button makes things work again.
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2025 16:21:43 -0500
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I may have identified the C8H8O3 compound.  Wintergreen Oil fits the
bill.

..<https://www.wikihow.com/Soften-Rubber>  Method 3

..<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methyl_salicylate>

..<https://www.amazon.com/Salicylate-Wintergreen-Softening-Hardened-Products/dp/B0D6R9J83D>

I'm betting that the rubber restorer is one guy who read the WikiHow
article.

Joe Gwinn


On Sun, 02 Feb 2025 13:43:18 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:

>On Sat, 01 Feb 2025 18:19:53 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 01 Feb 2025 18:39:11 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 01 Feb 2025 09:57:51 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Sat, 01 Feb 2025 11:07:18 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
>>>>wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Very interesting in general, and I just bought a Brother MFC-L8905CDW.
>>>>>Have you encountered any of those yet?
>>>>>
>>>>>What the above replaced was an ancient Brother MFC-9840CDW, and I did
>>>>>have and repair many problems, and got 15 years out of it.
>>>>
>>>>I retired from the daily grind just after the CZU fire and Covid.  I
>>>>currently don't see many repairs on larger and heavier printers
>>>>because I would need to carry the printers up and down 50 stairs to
>>>>work on them.  I also don't have the necessary bench space available.
>>>>My current customers are mostly home users who normally don't need or
>>>>purchase big and heavy business class printers.
>>>
>>>I tend to buy the industrial stuff, but at their lower end, because
>>>the extra expense is worth it for better quality.
>>
>>For printers, I buy new printers for my customers and inherit their
>>previous printer for free or at least a substantial discount on my
>>labor charges.  
>
>Here I am both customer and tech.
>
>
>>An industrial printer is what's used for commercial production
>>printing.  These are well above the needs of the typical small
>>business.  
>
>Yes, and these cost tens of thousands of dollars minimum.  Only large
>companies have these.
>
>
>>  For example, what small business needs a printer that can
>>continuously print bills, promotional literature, tickets, etc all day
>>long?  Running a business class printer continuously like that would
>>kill it rather soon.  At this time, business class can perhaps print
>>25,000 pages before requiring all the plastic and rubber parts need to
>>be replaced.  
>
>That would be a the all-plastic wonders.  I've gotten far more from
>the Brother, and from the legacy HP printers that proceeded it.
>
>My first laser was a HP LaserJet 5MP bought in 1996 for about $1K, as
>I recall.  It needed few repairs, although I did upgrade the memory to
>max when that became cheap.  I finally recycled it circa 2015.  It
>still worked, but with crippling limitations, like inability to handle
>most modern print file formats.  And sunlight had made some critical
>plastic components to become brittle and crack.
>
>
>>   I've maintained ancient LaserJet 4 and 4 Si printers,
>>which printed about 125,000 pages before needing any major service.
>>Yes, that would be nice for home use, but certainly overkill.  HP and
>>others realized that such a long life printer would not be a good
>>thing for a company that made and sold printers, so they redesigned
>>the stamped steel tank of a printer into a lower cost but shorter life
>>all plastic toy.
>
>Yes.  But I've found the Brother units quite suitable.  Also, this is
>not just a printer, it's an all-in-one units.
>
>
>>>Sometimes the industrial stuff is cheaper as well.  Like for instance
>>>metro wire shelves.
>>
>><https://metro.com/commercial/>
>>I have several rows of those shelves (on rollers) in what used to be
>>my bedroom.  When I retired and closed my formerly palatial office,
>>all the storage racks and most of the junk on them, were transported
>>intact into my house.  The #1 project for the last 4 years has been to
>>purge the junk and get rid of the industrial warehouse decor.
>>
>>>And one of my selection criteria was weight, with heavier preferred
>>>(meaning more metal and less plastic).
>>
>>As I get older, cost has become the primary criteria.  I don't expect
>>or want to live longer than my furniture and toys.  
>
>I also won't have the energy or maybe ability to do much repairing as
>I get grayer and grayer.  
>
>
>>>>I haven't worked on any MFC-L8905CDW printers but have recently
>>>>cleaned a similar model after an aftermarket toner cartridge dumped
>>>>toner everywhere.  I didn't see anything unusual when I tested it.
>>>><https://www.brother-usa.com/products/mfcl8905cdw>
>>>>
>>>>The old MFC-9840CDW (discontinued) was not a good printer.
>>>><https://www.google.com/search?q=MFC-9840CDW&udm=2>
>>>>Two of my customers bought them many years ago.  As I vaguely recall,
>>>>the colors did not print true, the color self-calibration didn't quite
>>>>work, and I had to clean toner from the belt with almost every
>>>>cartridge change.  
>>>
>>>The color was never all that good to be sure, but it was good enough
>>>for me.  Nor did I clean the belt all that often.
>>
>>I'm told that it is possible to get descent color from the Brother
>>MFC-9840CDW.  However, it requires tearing it apart and cleaning the
>>toner dust off the color calibration optics and sensors.  
>
>Ahh.  So that's why.  Wonder if Brother has improved that part of the
>design.  One assumes so, after 15 years.
>
>
>>    To maintain
>>the color settings, don't let loose toner collect inside the machine,
>>especially around the waste box.
>><https://www.amazon.com/NUCALA-Compatible-WT100CL-Replacement-DCP-9040CN/dp/B0BHSHDHMQ>
>>Notice that waste toner box is only good for:
>>  Page volume: Approximately 20,500 pages with 5% coverage.
>>As you approach this limit, clean out the waste toner box or you will
>>soon be dealing with a big mess.  (Clue:  Nobody does this until it's
>>too late).
>
>Hmm.  The 9840 started to complains about that, so I dutifully
>replaced the waste toner box well in time.
>
>
>>>>   I don't recall any component failures or
>>>>replacement.  The rubber parts, which are usually the first to die,
>>>>held up well, mostly because the printer was lightly used.
>>>
>>>It worked well for many years, but it developed problems as it became
>>>elderly.  In all cases, the underlying problem was that some rubber or
>>>plastic component had aged and become glazed.  Disassembly and
>>>cleaning with a fiberglass brush followed by ethanol wiping helped a
>>>lot.  The famed "Stable 32" error was fixed by a carefully placed
>>>piece of mylar tape that prevented sticking.
>>
>>Ummmm... I think you mean "Print Unable 32" error message.  The means
>>you have either paper, or more likely labels, stuck on the rollers or
>>drum.  If it's the fuser roller or imager drum, and you get anywhere
>>near them with any kind of cleaner or solvent, you'll destroy the
>>coating.  Don't ask me how I learned this fact.  Even isopropyl
>>alcohol is to strong.  Instead, I use hot water, to melt the stick
>>label glue or scrape off the glue with a Teflon kitchen scraper.
>
>Yes, its "Print Unable 32".  I don't print labels or the like.  Or
>envelopes.  Too much trouble.
>
>
>>I won't say anything about resurfacing the roller using mylar tape
>>except that I've never tried it, don't think it will work, and have no
>>intention of trying it.
>
>The piece of tape was on a location sensing pad of some kind; don't
>recall where.  The rollers I was resurfacing were made of rubber of
>some kind, and were not destroyed by this treatment.
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