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Path: ...!3.eu.feeder.erje.net!feeder.erje.net!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!individual.net!not-for-mail From: Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech Subject: Re: Future bikes (was: Re: cleaning the commute bike) Date: 21 Jan 2025 15:02:37 GMT Lines: 105 Message-ID: <lv9r8dFumeU1@mid.individual.net> References: <lv4gq1F591bU1@mid.individual.net> <7duroj50rdm8bb3ill914legr6tus4ahce@4ax.com> <lv7j4fFke1gU1@mid.individual.net> <nvtuojdjsa5ilmfs0coc5rkj1v95ghbpgv@4ax.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Trace: individual.net 8JSqg0Sl/2oghnd1SGrezAAeuUUpwVhyW60nVYRkTenBKIAh6t Cancel-Lock: sha1:Yador+AsrobPNLExnD2tLJ5peWo= sha1:OYTQ22rJRTPA/rS60cHjNmt/Qys= sha256:uBejYvbhxtXKTwhzMK+kasrIxU70S40nCoK37iqIvhQ= User-Agent: NewsTap/5.5 (iPad) Bytes: 5633 Wolfgang Strobl <news51@mystrobl.de> wrote: > Am 20 Jan 2025 18:31:43 GMT schrieb Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com>: > >> Wolfgang Strobl <news51@mystrobl.de> wrote: >>> Am 19 Jan 2025 14:33:37 GMT schrieb Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com>: >>> >>>> In slightly disappointing news I’ve discovered that the Old school roadie >>>> commuter does need to be cleanse or shifting becomes hit and miss! >>>> >>>> Unlike the old MTB who’s cables run safely out of reach of muck and grime >>>> the roadie runs the shift cables around the bottom bracket, which collected >>>> salt/grime which eventually stopped it shifting reliably to the big ring. >>> >>> Wireless shifting might come to the rescue. :-) >> >> I’d expect so or even electronic as well sealed systems, though not really >> in the spirt of the cheap roadie! > > Certainly. But I expect that electronic shifting, whether wireless or > wired, will become just as cheap or even cheaper than purely mechanical > parts, in the long term. Possibly some things do remain more expensive, hydraulic disk brakes while certain can be bought cheaply cable disks can and do undercut them, tend to start at the £400 ish level for Flat bars, due to the drop bars having brakes/shifters in one, that point is £1000+ though I’d expect that to fall as more hydraulic moves down the group-set range. Even so I’d expect cable disks to retain its niche as the budget disk option. My commute bikes don’t get a huge amount of love, and are essentially tools so I’d be cautious with anything that adds battery management, I don’t mind charging stuff but I want a gauge not just a red light I’m at 10% power etc, hence the roadie has a connected light which gives the battery level on the Garmin, the bike light will last up to 24hrs and has a traffic light gauge plus a run time counter to the rear so it’s very easy to live with plus it works the way I like. > > I am imaging a future road bike where a central energy and data bus > supplies energy by internally routed wires to every relevant component, > from lights, derallieurs, switches and control panes. I'd move an > optional hub dynamo from the usuall location in the front wheel to the > rear and put an optional battery into the seat tube, like Shimano does. I’m sure your right but i suspect you’d be horrified ie be a E bike not dynamo driven. > > A suitably dimensioned ultracap at another point inside the frame could > be used to supply the lights and electronics when stationary if neither > a battery nor a hub dynamo are installed. > > Even very cheap bicycles are sold with hub dynamos, nowadays. I expect a > slimmed-down version of the above might become available, too. Different market conditions here dynamos are essentially a niche product and either an old bike that’s been kept going or aftermarket parts added and so on. I’d assume they would in time get replaced by battery packs be that in E bikes for utility bikes etc. > > >>> >>> I avoid these conditions nowadays, so I can't report on how the rear >>> derailleur deals with dirt and especially salt. Most probably not worse >>> than a mechanical one and perhaps better. >>> >>> Years ago, when commuting around the year, I had both spare cable guides >>> and cables in my toolbox. Using a a little bit of grease helps, but >>> can't help with corrosion on salted roads, in the long run. Replacing >>> both the inner cable and the cable guide after winter is a more reliable >>> solution. These parts are cheap. >>> >>> >>> <https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=derailleur+cable+guide+bottom+bracket&iax=images&ia=images> >>> >>> >> Wasn’t actually the cable guides under the bottom bracket but muck >> collecting between the mech/chainset and the chain stays which clogged the >> cable and it’s guide. > > The cable guide is in the open, on a place that is exposed to salt, > dirt/salt/water/mud from the road, so it will collect debris, resulting > in a corroded or stuck cable. In my experience, parts where the cable > runs in the open without a housing/cover are rarely a problem. > >> >> I’ll keep an eye on it! > > Cleaning and a little bit of grease now and then helps. When in doubt, > replace both the inner cable and the cable guide. These parts are cheap > and easy to replace. > > At some point it will need a proper set up as it was set up by the bike chain store and I suspect non optimal ie seems a fairly clunky and I have had Sora before its perfectly possible for it to be better. But that can wait it’s fine but could be better, it’s a tool after all that bike! Roger Merriman