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Path: ...!news.mixmin.net!news2.arglkargh.de!news.karotte.org!fu-berlin.de!uni-berlin.de!individual.net!not-for-mail From: Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech Subject: Re: Bleeding Disc's Date: 21 Mar 2025 21:17:04 GMT Lines: 49 Message-ID: <m463agFbiqmU1@mid.individual.net> References: <sg_CP.104746$D_V4.12482@fx39.iad> <vrhuni$13ja$1@dont-email.me> <vrk82s$1v95c$5@dont-email.me> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Trace: individual.net u6zUKm2U03SxRALqzdMepA26+ke/4y6lb9CvV7sI+PH9L+PnIi Cancel-Lock: sha1:0chCDulb+lvg6Ds3WyNogjQRqTc= sha1:cmu5DzwRVsu1Ly9sXe3NAHg7WEs= sha256:RSJYEYhHcLdzZ8fMNTTSpsTd/6UVkMxXcOVXeZfPrpk= User-Agent: NewsTap/5.5 (iPad) Bytes: 3061 Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > On 3/20/2025 4:44 PM, Mark J cleary wrote: >> On 3/20/2025 2:46 PM, cyclintom wrote: >>> I can't say what's going on. The fact that you had to bleed the rear >>> brakes backwards but I cured the front brakes which you would think >>> wouldn't be a problem since it is all vertical hoses was amazing. >>> Bleeding that brake from top to bottom releases a lot of air bubbles >>> after which the disk levers were hard and with about a half way pull >>> to lock. >>> >>> The levers with the bleeding cap off appeared top be full of liquid so >>> the levers were full and it couldn't be air trapped somewhere in the >>> levers. >>> >>> >>> but installing a funnel and filling it half way and using the syring >>> on the bottom pulled a great deal of air out of the system. >>> >>> So while the Shimano instructions and most of the videos showed bottom >>> to top, bleeding trom top to bottom as one video, made by a woman >>> mechanic seems to be the only way to get the brake properly bled. >> >> I have done it both ways and all seem to work about the same. However >> getting in a hurry and not letting things settle is a problem. This >> youtube video I watched is great and this works great. >> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brLF56banjs > > SO much more finicky than dealing with cable actuated rim brakes! > This is a Tom thing! Cable disks have niche applications, much like hydraulic rim brakes, both of which aren’t obsolete but are technological dead ends, with the same products being sold. Cable disks as they aren’t a sealed system, get muck into the callipers, which absolutely will do a number on the calliper, my Gravel bike as new had cable disks, used a few different callipers before I upgraded to hydraulic. They require much more maintenance, aka adjusting as the pads wear down, aren’t as powerful as hydraulics and realistically are rather the worse of both worlds. Assuming the bike has the clearance for 32ish then rim brakes arguably are easier to live with as long as it’s a road bike, rim pads have a remarkably short lifespan on wet mucky rides! Let alone lack of power and so on. Roger Merriman