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From: Zen Cycle <funkmaster@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Stuck BB
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2024 08:36:16 -0400
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On 9/16/2024 4:16 PM, AMuzi wrote:
> On 9/16/2024 2:00 PM, Zen Cycle wrote:
>> On 9/16/2024 1:57 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
>>> My Wilier has a stuck right cup BB. At the moment the cranks spin 
>>> fine. It has an FSA Mega Exp crankset that is the one that is not 
>>> pinch bolts but uses self extracting allen key to put on drive side 
>>> crank arm. Has the wavy washer in the set up. I think that is why the 
>>> bearings went bad because it allows moisture to get in not sealed 
>>> like a regular shimano crank and external BB.
>>>
>>> The BB is of course and external BB from FSA. The let side cup 
>>> bearings went bad so I used a Shimano BB60  cup because I had a spare 
>>> one. The crankset works beautiful now. However I would like to simply 
>>> try and use the whole Shimano BB60 bracket. I cannot however get the 
>>> right side cup off. I realize it is left hand threaded but it is 
>>> really stuck. I tried putting in a vice and using the bike to turn 
>>> but no luck.
>>
>> I was going to suggest that.
>>
>>
>>> I have managed to chew the notches pretty good but it will take the 
>>> wrench at this point.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions on how to get the cup free. I actually think it would 
>>> be easier to simply hacksaw the cup and take it out but I don't want 
>>> to mess up the treads in BB of the bike. I will take any and all 
>>> suggestions on how to get this cup off. At the moment the cranks spin 
>>> fine because the bearings are fine on the right side cup but I just 
>>> don't like the set up. I may even go to a shimano R7000 crankset. ]
>>
>>
>> I'm sure Andrew may have some sage advice, but if you're beginning to 
>> see damage to the cup, I'd suggest taking it to a shop.
>>
>> If you still want to DIY, get one of these to match your threading first.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-C-402-Bottom-Bracket-Tap/dp/ B000BSBSLQ/
>>
> 
> Some people do like owning esoteric tools but I strongly dissuade most 
> customers from buying dies, reamers, mills, taps. They are only and 
> always subtractive, that is, they can (and often do) damage material but 
> they cannot add material.
> 
> In his aluminum shell, 

Something else just occurred to me - If his frame is aluminum and the 
bearing cup is aluminum, it may have galled. In that case, even notching 
the cup isn't going to work. In fact, doing so may damage the cup such 
that it won't be possible to replace the bearing, you'll basically have 
to toss the thing.

The question is, how do you tell if it's galled or just stuck from 
corrosion or some adhesive?

> a small stainless brush is plenty for cleaning up 
> crud from the threads.



> 
> https://www.sears.com/forney-70488-wire-brush-stainless-steel-with-plastic/p-00920078000P
> 

-- 
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