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Path: ...!npeer.as286.net!npeer-ng0.as286.net!weretis.net!feeder8.news.weretis.net!eternal-september.org!feeder3.eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail From: AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech Subject: Re: Stuck BB Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2024 17:45:06 -0500 Organization: Yellow Jersey, Ltd. Lines: 192 Message-ID: <vcktth$19as1$1@dont-email.me> References: <vc9riq$2vnl9$1@dont-email.me> <vc9v87$2vi8l$4@dont-email.me> <vca3mv$31h84$2@dont-email.me> <vcbt40$3gqp9$1@dont-email.me> <vcbv4o$3h5s3$2@dont-email.me> <vccn3c$3gqp9$2@dont-email.me> <vcdcsb$3rsol$1@dont-email.me> <5uGGO.58521$WXO8.18353@fx13.iad> <vcfd8e$6j1o$1@dont-email.me> <MtjHO.190728$FzW1.136310@fx14.iad> <vcknb0$18c89$2@dont-email.me> <vckqps$18ovl$1@dont-email.me> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Injection-Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2024 00:45:05 +0200 (CEST) Injection-Info: dont-email.me; posting-host="4c8c5c3f3d06d8783477b0a5130e1d52"; logging-data="1354625"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX19IVrTuxPnNht18x3QcWpCs" User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird Cancel-Lock: sha1:1PotpBIBwY//LeBOQxKyndCtK2I= Content-Language: en-US In-Reply-To: <vckqps$18ovl$1@dont-email.me> Bytes: 8579 On 9/20/2024 4:51 PM, Mark J cleary wrote: > On 9/20/2024 3:52 PM, AMuzi wrote: >> On 9/20/2024 1:50 PM, cyclintom wrote: >>> On Wed Sep 18 15:30:06 2024 AMuzi wrote: >>>> On 9/18/2024 3:11 PM, cyclintom wrote: >>>>> On Tue Sep 17 22:11:23 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote: >>>>>> On 9/17/2024 3:59 PM, Zen Cycle wrote: >>>>>>> On 9/17/2024 9:10 AM, AMuzi wrote: >>>>>>>> On 9/17/2024 7:36 AM, Zen Cycle wrote: >>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2024 4:16 PM, AMuzi wrote: >>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2024 2:00 PM, Zen Cycle wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2024 1:57 PM, Mark J cleary wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> My Wilier has a stuck right cup BB. At the >>>>>>>>>>>> moment the cranks spin >>>>>>>>>>>> fine. It has an FSA Mega Exp crankset that is >>>>>>>>>>>> the one that is not >>>>>>>>>>>> pinch bolts but uses self extracting allen key >>>>>>>>>>>> to put on drive >>>>>>>>>>>> side crank arm. Has the wavy washer in the set >>>>>>>>>>>> up. I think that is >>>>>>>>>>>> why the bearings went bad because it allows >>>>>>>>>>>> moisture to get in not >>>>>>>>>>>> sealed like a regular shimano crank and external >>>>>>>>>>>> BB. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> The BB is of course and external BB from FSA. >>>>>>>>>>>> The let side cup >>>>>>>>>>>> bearings went bad so I used a Shimano BB60 cup >>>>>>>>>>>> because I had a >>>>>>>>>>>> spare one. The crankset works beautiful now. >>>>>>>>>>>> However I would like >>>>>>>>>>>> to simply try and use the whole Shimano BB60 >>>>>>>>>>>> bracket. I cannot >>>>>>>>>>>> however get the right side cup off. I realize it >>>>>>>>>>>> is left hand >>>>>>>>>>>> threaded but it is really stuck. I tried putting >>>>>>>>>>>> in a vice and >>>>>>>>>>>> using the bike to turn but no luck. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> I was going to suggest that. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> I have managed to chew the notches pretty good >>>>>>>>>>>> but it will take >>>>>>>>>>>> the wrench at this point. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions on how to get the cup free. I >>>>>>>>>>>> actually think it >>>>>>>>>>>> would be easier to simply hacksaw the cup and >>>>>>>>>>>> take it out but I >>>>>>>>>>>> don't want to mess up the treads in BB of the >>>>>>>>>>>> bike. I will take >>>>>>>>>>>> any and all suggestions on how to get this cup >>>>>>>>>>>> off. At the moment >>>>>>>>>>>> the cranks spin fine because the bearings are >>>>>>>>>>>> fine on the right >>>>>>>>>>>> side cup but I just don't like the set up. I may >>>>>>>>>>>> even go to a >>>>>>>>>>>> shimano R7000 crankset. ] >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> I'm sure Andrew may have some sage advice, but if >>>>>>>>>>> you're beginning >>>>>>>>>>> to see damage to the cup, I'd suggest taking it >>>>>>>>>>> to a shop. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> If you still want to DIY, get one of these to >>>>>>>>>>> match your threading >>>>>>>>>>> first. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> https://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-C-402-Bottom- >>>>>>>>>>> Bracket-Tap/dp/ B000BSBSLQ/ >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Some people do like owning esoteric tools but I >>>>>>>>>> strongly dissuade >>>>>>>>>> most customers from buying dies, reamers, mills, >>>>>>>>>> taps. They are only >>>>>>>>>> and always subtractive, that is, they can (and >>>>>>>>>> often do) damage >>>>>>>>>> material but they cannot add material. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> In his aluminum shell, >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Something else just occurred to me - If his frame >>>>>>>>> is aluminum and the >>>>>>>>> bearing cup is aluminum, it may have galled. In >>>>>>>>> that case, even >>>>>>>>> notching the cup isn't going to work. In fact, >>>>>>>>> doing so may damage >>>>>>>>> the cup such that it won't be possible to replace >>>>>>>>> the bearing, you'll >>>>>>>>> basically have to toss the thing. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> The question is, how do you tell if it's galled or >>>>>>>>> just stuck from >>>>>>>>> corrosion or some adhesive? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> a small stainless brush is plenty for cleaning up >>>>>>>>>> crud from the >>>>>>>>>> threads. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> https://www.sears.com/forney-70488-wire-brush- >>>>>>>>>> stainless- steel-with- >>>>>>>>>> plastic/p-00920078000P >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Even with a lot of displaced material, a slit or at >>>>>>>> the extreme two of >>>>>>>> them will relieve the pressure and allow removal. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I'm not an ME, but that's not how I understood >>>>>>> galling works. I was told >>>>>>> the two surfaces bond on the molecular level, I >>>>>>> suppose one might be >>>>>>> able to 'peel' the two components apart, but that >>>>>>> would either leave >>>>>>> and/or remove enough material such that the remaining >>>>>>> threads would be >>>>>>> likely damaged beyond use. >>>>>>> Not being an expert in this area, I might have some >>>>>>> misunderstanding. >>>>>> >>>>>> I'm a Mechanical Engineer, but I think we need a >>>>>> Metallurgical Engineer >>>>>> at this point. But we've been talking about parts that >>>>>> are not in >>>>>> motion. As I understand it, galling requires relative >>>>>> motion. >>>>>> >>>>>> The problem with aluminum and steel, as in this >>>>>> situation, is different. >>>>>> It's a layer of aluminum oxide forming at the >>>>>> interface, which adds >>>>>> thickness to the aluminum and causes the aluminum >>>>>> component to >>>>>> essentially clamp onto the steel component. AFAIK >>>>>> there's no >>>>>> metal-to-metal bonding. But it's a famous problem with >>>>>> aluminum >>>>>> seatposts in steel frames. Searching online will show >>>>>> that problem is >>>>>> pretty common and quite difficult. >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> - Frank Krygowski >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> The carbon fiber Willier has not been around long >>>>> enough for the problem to be serious if it is a >>>>> corrosion problem or not being able to force it out if >>>>> it is a cross threaded problem. It is very unlikely to >>>>> be cross threading so his problem is probably nothing >>>>> more than corrosion. And Shimano cups are easy to force >>>>> out. The material is soft enough that it would leave >>>>> corrosion behine that could be cleaned by a shop with >>>>> BSC thread cleaner. >>>> >>>> Bike is a 2013 (plenty old enough for corrosion) and you >>>> don't know that until the cup is out. >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Andrew, do you think that Mark should be sawing off a BB >>> instead of turning it out? It is more likely that he was >>> turning it the wrong way and not that it was frozen with >>> corrosion >> ========== REMAINDER OF ARTICLE TRUNCATED ==========