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Path: ...!3.eu.feeder.erje.net!feeder.erje.net!eternal-september.org!feeder3.eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail From: "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Timber frame joint rings Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2024 08:09:55 -0400 Organization: A noiseless patient Spider Lines: 55 Message-ID: <vdjd8h$37sc3$1@dont-email.me> References: <vcu7p6$36eec$1@dont-email.me> <vdi01s$2tugu$1@dont-email.me> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Injection-Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2024 14:10:58 +0200 (CEST) Injection-Info: dont-email.me; posting-host="2e0de7d114d5fe3ae7b88a00ea000da6"; logging-data="3404163"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX18Tis89V9TZAp7qRnKyv2RzEO5QJoUXv5E=" Cancel-Lock: sha1:USS6dJOLO/rOi3SRphrmubW/AJc= X-Antivirus-Status: Clean X-Priority: 3 In-Reply-To: <vdi01s$2tugu$1@dont-email.me> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V16.4.3505.912 X-Newsreader: Microsoft Windows Live Mail 16.4.3505.912 X-Antivirus: AVG (VPS 240927-0, 9/26/2024), Outbound message Importance: Normal X-MSMail-Priority: Normal Bytes: 4109 X-Original-Lines: 4 "James Waldby" wrote in message news:vdi01s$2tugu$1@dont-email.me... Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote: > Does anyone have experience with using metal rings to reinforce timber > frame > joints? https://www.splitringconnectors.com/ > > I'm thinking of cutting some scrap 1-1/2" steel tubing (1.66" OD, like > water > pipe) into rings that could be split open to fit into the kerf of a 1-3/4" > hole saw. They would mainly take the shear stress on diagonal braces of > the > replacement shed frame I'm building from 5" square oak. 5" made full use > of > the logs I slabbed to 21" wide to fit between the uprights of my bandsaw > mill. It might be worth trying a 1 - 11/16 hole saw, to see if you could avoid having to split the tubing side. (But if you're only doing half a dozen or so connections and don't have that size, it might not be worth getting one, even at only $7) https://www.acmetools.com/milwaukee-1-11-16-in-hole-dozer-bi-metal-hole-saw-49-56-9620/045242222490.html ------------------------------------------- Thanks. I found the hole saws I wanted at a second hand store with lower prices and a better range of sizes than HD or Lowe's. I tried them, a 1-5/16" hole accepts 1" pipe to sleeve 1"-8 adjusting screws in wood columns, 1-11/16" accepts (snugly) the 1-1/2" (1.66") tubing for the joint rings, and I bought 2-3/8" for 2" fence posts if I can find the damaged piece to cut up. I have the Greenlee punches for conduit so I hadn't bought the hole saw sizes as well. My electrician experience is industrial (sheet metal) instead of residential (wood). 1.66" is the actual OD of 1-1/4" pipe. Thin-walled tubing has the OD of pipe but is named with a fraction nearer its measurement. I tabulated the readily available pipe, tubing and conduit by its actual measurement to clear up the nominal vs physical size confusion. It turns out that tarp shelter tubing and fence posts have the OD of pipe, EMT the ID of Sch40, and some sizes may telescope. Lamp fixture tubing is in pipe sizes with straight threads. 2"/50mm OD is also readily available in short lengths, as exhaust pipe and for DIY brewing etc. The low chromium stainless grade for exhausts does rust somewhat, "sanitary" stainless is better. The swaged ends of 1-1/2" tubing salvaged from a collapsed tarp garage fit over the legs of the HF 10' x 20' canopy closely (after deburring), to raise it above my gantry hoist. They also had the watch lathe, without any accessories. The watch lathe users manual I found on line suggests that they are more suited to repair than manufacturing parts or tooling from standard-sized rod stock, and I have 5C collets down to 1/32" and 1/16". Unfortunately that store is selling off and closing.