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Path: ...!eternal-september.org!feeder2.eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: Re: Mill parts Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2024 12:19:19 -0600 Organization: A noiseless patient Spider Lines: 80 Message-ID: <vhl97d$7d1t$1@dont-email.me> References: <vhj6s7$22t7n$1@dont-email.me> <vhl3kr$63a6$1@dont-email.me> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Injection-Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2024 19:19:26 +0100 (CET) Injection-Info: dont-email.me; posting-host="4f3004e159a6109d7e768d90e77de18a"; logging-data="242749"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX1+kwAVUIXP+0Kta8II1+qKDhQPoWNN/H6w=" User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:60.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/60.9.1 Cancel-Lock: sha1:5lMVpwaUZATsxwshWC6UeLb3VcM= X-Antivirus-Status: Clean In-Reply-To: <vhl3kr$63a6$1@dont-email.me> X-Antivirus: Avast (VPS 241120-2, 11/20/2024), Outbound message Content-Language: en-US Bytes: 4939 On 11/20/2024 10:44 AM, Bob La Londe wrote: > On 11/19/2024 4:27 PM, Snag wrote: >> I'm in need of help finding a part for my bench top mill , RF45 >> clone . It's the same as the Grizzly G0484 and they show the part as >> discontinued . I'm looking for a replacement X axis lead screw nut . >> The Grizzly part number is P0484032 , maybe someone is making a >> replacement since there must be 10's of thousands of these machines >> around . The thread is Acme 15/16 (24 mm) diameter with an eight TPI >> thread . I've seen articles about people making replacements using >> plastic - maybe ABS? - and heat/pressure forming the threads but I'd >> lots rather find a direct drop-in replacement . > > > Would have responded sooner, but I do not have a proper Usenet client > installed on the house computer. > > My first response would also be to sleeve the existing nut. This > addresses your request. I would suggest very tight sliding fit and use > sleeve and bearing locker. > > The search for a new one is what it is. A search. I have no special > insights other than as you clearly already know that these machines may > be sold under different labels. I suggest may be ask Matt at Precision > Mathews. Admittedly he may be more responsive on parts to a customer > than somebody who just wants parts, but he is very good at supporting > customers. > > Now for the tangents. > > Backlash should not be a huge issue if your gibbs are adjusted, you use > your gibb locks, and you mostly conventional mill. Accuracy probably is > not a huge issue, but if it is take all measured moves using the hand > wheel dials in only one direction. If you really need to be able find a > postion accurately in two directions there are two solutions. The nice > one is a DRO with glass scales. The alternative is some dial indicators > mounted to the table. I have a dial indicator mounted semi permanently > on one of my lathes. I just a few months ago ditched the Shumatech DRO and capacitive scales for a nice glass scale DRO that reads to tenths ... and I have a dial indicator on a mount that clamps to the front v way on the lathe in addition to one on a magnetic mount . Also have a couple of Starrett back plunger indicators with hardware and one NIB indicator for a backup in case I break one . > > As was already mentioned ABS is a terrible idea for all the reasons > stated. Acetal (Delrin is a trade name) is used for bearings, axis > nuts, and a variety of other things. Its pretty tough and there are > commercial products made form the stuff. HOWEVER. Acetal does not > accept any common adhesive well at all. It would not be a good option > for boring and sleeving the old nut. Bronze or even brass would be > better. I do not know if adhesives would stick to oilite bronze. Maybe > another rabbit hole to research there. If I sleeve the original it'll be with bearing bronze or some Ampco 45 aluminum bronze . I have both on hand ... > > I looked. I do not have an acme tap that big. You will have to cut it > on your lathe (or buy a very expensive tap) after grinding a suitable > inside cutting tool. It will probably chatter pretty bad, so it might > be time to consider making a solid tool post that bolts directly to the > cross slide. > I already made a post type boring bar holder that bolts directly to the compound . I can use the lathe leadscrew as a pattern to grind the tool since it too is 8 TPI . Actually I have another leadscrew that's in very good condition that I would use . -- Snag Voting for Kamabla after Biden is like changing your shirt because you shit your pants .