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From: bp@www.zefox.net
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: For those who believe in electricity
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2025 03:59:05 -0000 (UTC)
Organization: A noiseless patient Spider
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Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> It’s still not fixed, but it's getting late here. I would try to simply 
> short out the switch, but it’s very difficult to identify and reach its 
> microscopic solder pads and I’m no good at micro soldering.  I think my 
> best bet will be to mechanically remove the switch, crushing and cutting 
> it as necessary, hoping that it will yield access to solder points that 
> I can bridge with a short. If that cures it, fine. And I’ll probably buy 
> that other light anyway.
> 

If the switch used to click and now doesn't, it's likely bad. I'd
be somewhat surprised if the illustrated switches were able to click
at all, they seem mighty small. They also look well-sealed.  

With ohmmeter probes across the switch contacts it should either be
zero (closed) or something else (rest of circuit) when open. If it's
not zero, I'd agree either the switch is faulty or you've got a bad
connection in your test leads. Jumpy readings are always suspect. 

A close inspection with a magnifier might reveal unsound solder joints.
It might be possible to reflow at least those that look dewetted or
lean. Long shot, but I've fixed one or two gadgets that way. In the
second photo the solder joints either side of SW2 look less than ideal.

Good luck,

bob prohaska