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Path: ...!eternal-september.org!feeder3.eternal-september.org!news.eternal-september.org!eternal-september.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail From: Zen Cycle <funkmaster@hotmail.com> Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech Subject: Re: RE: For those who believe in electricity Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2025 12:17:17 -0400 Organization: A noiseless patient Spider Lines: 89 Message-ID: <vt0tqd$3vi0o$10@dont-email.me> References: <vsvct9$2gcvj$1@dont-email.me> <8OSIP.168521$J3s7.132815@fx05.iad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Injection-Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2025 18:17:18 +0200 (CEST) Injection-Info: dont-email.me; posting-host="346d29aaef5c18429bf684162d4f4fe1"; logging-data="4179992"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@eternal-september.org"; posting-account="U2FsdGVkX19Rj7y5Nzz6qFqhJM7Ot3APcxcWbUxpzeM=" User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird Cancel-Lock: sha1:0In82dWXUuC4gWAkvChWFGr8v4w= In-Reply-To: <8OSIP.168521$J3s7.132815@fx05.iad> Content-Language: en-US Bytes: 5429 On 4/7/2025 12:10 PM, cyclintom wrote: > On Sun Apr 6 22:22:33 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote: >> I'm not an electronics guy. But speaking of problems, I think I >> mentioned a few days ago that on a recent night ride, my headlight (B&M >> Eyc N plus), powered by my good old sidewall generator, was randomly >> and sporadically blinking off. I put the bike on the workstand, checked >> out the wiring (it?s original and pristine), and spent some time >> spinning the front wheel. Sometimes the headlight worked, sometimes not, >> and it changed state at random without having been touched. I was >> suspicious of the tiny on/off switch hidden behind a rubber plug, in >> part because I felt no satisfying click. >> >> I substituted a different (lower quality) LED dynamo light, which seemed >> to work perfectly and probably absolved the generator. I eventually >> talked by phone to Peter White, who sold me the light far longer ago >> than I remembered - ten years! I asked if he had clues on diagnosing the >> problem. He did not, but suggested that the identical light without the >> possible failure point of an on/off switch is just $35. (A sidewall >> dyno doesn't need a switch.) Still, I opted to open the light to see if >> I could spot anything because I have a compulsion about fixing things - >> but a headlight has to be really, really reliable. >> >> Here are photos of the electronic guts, with a vernier caliper for size >> (and to educate Tom!). >> >> Bottom view. The downward facing LED is at the top of the photo, the >> suspicious switch is the tiny white box at the photo?s bottom. >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/16972296@N08/54435279894/in/dateposted-public/ >> >> Top of the circuit board. The large copper pad is part of the heat sink >> system, contacting a metal casting that forms the top of the headlamp >> body. I?ll probably add some heat conducting goop when I reassemble: >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/16972296@N08/54435279589/in/dateposted-public/ >> >> Although a bike generator or dynamo puts out AC, I had hoped to diagnose >> it using DC, figuring a 6 volt battery would essentially supply half of >> the sine wave so half of the input circuit. That naturally works with >> incandescents, and it worked with one Avenir LED dyno headlight that I >> repaired. Not so in this case. So I ran another generator using a roller >> chucked in my drill press, attached a digital voltmeter in parallel, and >> poked around best I could. I saw nothing loose, no scorched components, >> nothing obviously wrong. >> >> With no power attached, I tried checking for continuity across the >> switch. It always showed close to zero ohms, never infinity - but the >> resistance readings with pinpoint probes were jumpy, and since the >> switch wasn?t isolated from the circuit, that may not mean much. >> >> I used contact cleaner to blast out the switch and repeatedly clicked >> it, including while power was applied. Except for a few occasions, the >> light did not respond to the switch, so I still suspect the switch. When >> the light was off, I had about 12 VDC. When on, about 4 VDC. >> >> It?s still not fixed, but it's getting late here. I would try to simply >> short out the switch, but it?s very difficult to identify and reach its >> microscopic solder pads and I?m no good at micro soldering. I think my >> best bet will be to mechanically remove the switch, crushing and cutting >> it as necessary, hoping that it will yield access to solder points that >> I can bridge with a short. If that cures it, fine. And I?ll probably buy >> that other light anyway. >> >> BTW, Peter White is not pleased about the tariff situation. He says he >> won?t raise prices on current stock, but with the next shipment he?ll >> probably have to. > > > > > What is the purpose of holding that PC board in a caliper? He stated it in his message. > Was the size of the board in question? Wow...You don't know how to read a caliper? > Tell us the function of the PC board He did > and the likely source of your blinking problem? He speculated, not being an EE or Elec Tech. > Frank, you were an instructor, you do not have any practical knowledge of anything. did you actually bother to read any of this before posting? -- Add xx to reply