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From: Mark J cleary <mcleary08@comcast.net>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.tech
Subject: Re: Front derailleur issues
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2025 15:34:04 -0500
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On 4/16/2025 12:32 PM, AMuzi wrote:
> On 4/16/2025 12:02 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
>> On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 12:52:29 -0400, Catrike Ryder
>> <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:35:51 -0400, Catrike Ryder
>>> <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift
>>>>>>>> deraileur, I rode today without touching it.  It performed all 
>>>>>>>> shifts
>>>>>>>> up and down quietly with no problems.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> "So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to 
>>>>>>>> return
>>>>>>>> the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> "Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and 
>>>>>>>> install
>>>>>>>> the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even 
>>>>>>>> though
>>>>>>>> it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's
>>>>>>>> just wrong.....
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are 
>>>>>>>> shot. The
>>>>>>>> Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my 
>>>>>>>> proposed
>>>>>>>> modifications.  The parts for that are not here yet.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>> C'est bon
>>>>>>>> Soloman
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
>>>>>>> journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
>>>>>>> dust if it's been run dry.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
>>>>>>> are ceramic sleeves.  All of them run better, quieter and
>>>>>>> longer with some oil on the sleeve.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
>>>>>>> seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
>>>>>>> under the seals.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path
>>>>>> It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms,
>>>>>> and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be
>>>>>> wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> C'est bon
>>>>>> Soloman
>>>>>
>>>>> Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
>>>>> Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
>>>>> well.  And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
>>>>
>>>> I get them from TerraCycle
>>>> https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
>>>> ...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products.
>>>>
>>>> I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many
>>>> years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
>>>> teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of
>>>> the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from
>>>> what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be
>>>> loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
>>>
>>> Simple fix. I disassembled the idler and found the side of the bearing
>>> I couldn't see all rusty and coming apart. I found the one remaining
>>> bearing in my stash and put it in. Now it works fine. I guess I'd
>>> replaced more than the one I mentioned, or else I lost some of them.
>>>
>>> FWIW, the bearings are skateboard bearings. I ordered some more..
>>>
>>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8795LS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
>>
>> The new Microshift 50/39/30 front derailleur came in this morning and
>> it took me 45 minutes to change them out and get the new one dialed
>> in. I know the guys who do that regularly could have done it in half
>> the time, but that I had no trouble was good for my ego after all the
>> problems I had getting the old 53/39/30 derailleur to work.
>>
>> -- 
>> C'est bon
>> Soloman
> 
> Yes, faster usually, but we cheat.
> 
> We move work so it's between elbow and shoulder, in a good light, and we 
> can work from either side.  Recumbents just take more time.
> 

I always say the I am a competent bike mechanic and in time can do just 
about everything I need to do. I don't make frames or components but 
otherwise can do most anything. What separates me from the shop mechanic 
is that I am not so fast. If I have not done the job in a while it is 
going to take me longer and in general I take longer. The main thing is 
to be self-sufficient if you can. Although the local shop wanted to hire 
me because I could build and true wheels that at the time needed that 
skill. I think only the head guy could do it. Those catrikes would be 
hard to move around and deal with I would think.

-- 
Deacon Mark