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Failed to connect to MySQL: (1203) User howardkn already has more than 'max_user_connections' active connectionsPath: news.eternal-september.org!eternal-september.org!feeder3.eternal-september.org!panix!.POSTED.2602:f977:0:1::2!not-for-mail From: Ted Heise Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.rv-travel Subject: Re: Charging from tow vehicle Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2025 22:11:31 -0000 (UTC) Organization: My own, such as it is Message-ID: References: Injection-Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2025 22:11:31 -0000 (UTC) Injection-Info: reader1.panix.com; posting-host="2602:f977:0:1::2"; logging-data="16272"; mail-complaints-to="abuse@panix.com" User-Agent: slrn/1.0.3 (NetBSD) On Wed, 5 Mar 2025 20:03:57 -0000 (UTC), Ted Heise wrote: > On Wed, 5 Mar 2025 09:05:19 -0600, > sticks wrote: > > The first place to start would be the 7 prong plug in, on the > > tow vehicle, and the vehicle being towed. I am going to take > > it for granted most of us would be using a 7 prong plug. > > Any differences are minimal and easily solved. > > So let's start on the tow vehicle. It might surprise some of > > us that our plugs don't even have power in them as delivered > > from the factory. I have an F-150 and was quite surprised > > myself that I had to install an additional fuse to get my > > line hot. It was wired, but not fused and inactive. With > > today's CANBUS systems, it can be difficult testing this, and > > you really have to use a 12 volt test light and not a volt > > meter. > > My thinking was to take a reading from the LiIon battery app > with the battery connected to the trailer and then with the > fridge started (I think it may run off the batt for a minute or > two). Then I would connect the 7-pin to the running TV and > repeat these readings. Does that seem like a reasonable > approach? > > I need a block of time to get out to the storage unit for this, > so in the meantime I figured I'd take some measurements at the > 7-pin. First I connected clips from my multimeter with the TV > off. Surprisingly, I got some sparking, may have been from > touching across pins. But once I had a good connection I got > no voltage. > > Now this could be from the line not being hot (e.g., because of > a fuse needed), or because a multimeter won't work. But I > vaguely recall having gotten a 12-13 V reading from the pins > some time in the past. So maybe the sparking blew the fuse. > I'm trying to run down where that would be and will let you > know what I find. Okay, I found the fuse (designated "trailer battery") and found it was definitely blown. Put in a replacement, and still get no sign of 12 V at the proper pins (at about the 1:30 and 7:00 positions). So I guess next is to ask the dealer to look at it. Might look for a test light too, I guess. -- Ted Heise West Lafayette, IN, USA